How to make a Dorset Button

I have wanted to learn the art of Dorset button making  for some time.  A two hour workshop at my local Embroiderers’ Guild cropped up, and was a perfect excuse to chat with my sewing chums and learn!  A collection of stunning vintage pieces and a copy of Stitch magazine provided inspiration for our first Dorset Button.

So I started my first ever Dorset Button. Any ring made of plastic, bone or metal will do the job perfectly. Perle cotton number 8 thread, a tapestry needle, a brass ring and blanket stitch. This stage was called ‘Casting’.  I found out that the thread needs to be longer than you think – enough to finish the whole project. I was recommended 3 arm lengths of thread which was ample for a medium to large size ring.

Blanket Stitch – Casting

Next came ‘Slicking’. The ridge formed by the blanket stitch was turned to the centre of the ring, making a smooth edge to the ring ready for the next stage.

Turning edge to centre – Slicking

‘Laying’ was next. The thread was wound around the ring like spokes in a wheel. The number of spokes and their position on the ring can vary depending upon the pattern being created. I was making a Dorset Crosswheel so I only needed 8 spokes. I centred the spokes with two cross stitches before moving onto Rounding.

Making spokes – Laying
Cross-stitch in centre of spokes, ties them together

‘Rounding’ was the final stage.  Working from the back of the button, the thread was wound around the spokes in a kind of backstitch effect. This made the ‘ridges’ on the button front.

Using a backstitch around spokes – Rounding
Button Front

It was a very therapeutic morning of sewing.  I went home and made a few more before the day was over – it’s quite addictive. Dorset buttons are brilliant for embroiderers. Each button has a fabulous textured surface that’s a perfect background just waiting for more decorative stitching.

These are some of the pieces made over the weekend of the workshop. They include a few rings that have been Casted and are awaiting the next stage – when I can decide what design to settle on !

I hope this has inspired you to take a look at Dorset buttons and have a go making one. For more information on Dorset Buttons, check out the Gold Hill Museum in Dorset where the famous Hovis Hill is and a collection of original vintage Dorset Buttons can be found.

Hand Embroidery Samples 12 ….. Raised Chain Band Stitch

This stitch was a new one to me, and now I love it. Raised Chain Band consists of a column of parallel stitches which are then interwoven with a second thread – the woven stitch sits on top, proud of the fabric. A very effective stitch, the variations are endless. This sample was created on Irish Linen.

The following experimental sample was created on Mulberry Bark Cloth and stitched with Perle cotton, DMC stranded embroidery thread, variegated hand dyed wool and coats cotton 50 weight sewing thread.  Maintaining an even tension takes serious concentration – it pays off with a fab run of stitches.

 

 

There are a multitude of ways to create variation in this stitch – the obvious being the variety of threads and colours used – but it can also be found in altering the balance of thread thicknesses between the parallel and woven stitches; the placing of the woven stitch (to one side, leaving it central or letting it meander along the run of stitch); and playing with the columns of parallel stitches – varying the width of stitch and the size of the gap or interval between the stitches.
This Embroidery course has been a joy to take part in.  I have learned so much.  I hope you have enjoyed looking at my samples and are inspired to experiment yourself.

Hand Embroidery Samples 11 ….. Pekinese Stitch

This stitch, at first glance, looks relatively simple to do –  back stitch with a second thread looped through. The key to a good finish is maintaining a constant tension to create even loops – not as easy as you think.
This sample on Irish Linen was created using weaving silk, sari waste silk yarn, hand dyed variegated wool and hand dyed perle cotton yarn.

The following experimental  sample was created on pages from an old book (three pages layered and machine stitched onto calico), using a range of Anchor stranded embroidery threads.

 

This is not as easy as it looks to create. Have a go yourself and experiment.